In its grounds are many ornamental gardens, many direction signs done in good taste show the way to them all.

The Great Vine (planted in 1789), claimed to be the oldest in the world, the Maze (where Harris, one of Jerome K. Jerome’s "Three Men in a Boat", got hopelessly lost along with 20 followers and a keeper), Wren’s Banqueting House, the Royal Tennis Court, the Great Kitchens, the Long Water and much more. The Palace nowadays is run by the Historical Royal Palaces, whose headquarters is based at Hampton Court.  Summer events include the Hampton Court Festival and the Hampton Court Flower Show.  If you do have time spend a day here, take time and do it.  On a recent visit, with my eldest daughter, I was privileged to come across Elaine Page rehearsing with an orchestra for a concert that evening, I only missed Pavarotti the day before.  Of all the places I have been in the UK, Hampton Court is one of my favourite. I have played golf in it's grounds, I have been paid by my company to recruit for staff there, I have often ran through the grounds incorporating runs through Bushy Park, along the Thames and even from Richmond Park. To be able to run free through such a beautiful surroundings is incredible. People come from all over the world to marvel at the splendour and history. To really appreciate the palace, you have to go inside, this you pay for, yet it's not expensive for a day you'll remember for the rest of your life.

In 1999 we were helped on our way from the start by the Royal College of Science Student Union Motorised Mascot "Jezebel", a 1916 Dennis N-Type working fire engine.

Just outside the grounds of the Palace there are many other places to see.  Christopher Wren lived close to the main entrance, his house is two along on the left, past the roundabout.  Michael Faraday's House is next door to Wren's. 

To the north of the palace is Bushy Park, with its chestnut trees, Diana Fountain, Woodland Gardens, herds of deer and was headquarters to the Allies during World war II. The park came up as a site for a London airport just after the war, but it got retrieved when a cabinet minister pulled a quick one on the House of Commons to get permission to have a military airport built over a village called Heathrow. His real intentions were not voiced and we still are lucky to have Bushy Park as it was laid out many hundreds of years ago.

When crossing the bridge look back, for a good view, across the river to the palace.

The leg is mainly Thames towpath.  Crosses the Thames at two points, Hampton Court and Walton  Bridges.  Diverts on road, past Shepperton Square and then again along the Thames, past, Shepperton, Chertsey and Penton Hook Locks to finish just before Staines bridge.

Hampton Court Bridge, opened by the Prince of Wales in 1933, was designed by Lutyens. It is concrete, but so as to blend with the Palace, is faced with narrow red bricks and great quantities of Portland stone for dressings and balustrades.

Just before joining the Thames Towpath we pass the War Memorial at East Molesey. Across the river many expensive boats are moored at the Thames Motor Yacht Club. Care must be taken as soon the busy boat houses of Hampton School and Molesey Boat Club. The latter being famous for the Olympic Gold winners, the Searle Brothers and their crying cox. Molesey Lock is on our right as we join the towpath. The footbridge across the weir is used by residents of Ash Island, the island having a weir both sides.

A huge amount of people live on or next to the Thames, the exact number I wouldn't like to guess, but I'm sure it's enough to populate a small city. One of the first river communities we pass is that of Tagg's Island, the houseboats lined bow to stern along its shore. In contrast the neighbouring  Swan Island, as it's aptly named, is only inhabited by swans.

After a short distance along the towpath we pass Hurst Park, once a racecourse but now has given way to a housing development.  "The little race-course at Hampton" was where a scene from Dickens' Nicholas Nickleby was set.  Across the river you can see Hampton (village on dry land) clustered around its church, St Mary's.  Hampton House can be seen facing the river, and is where actor David Garrick retired to in 1754. Garrick employed the Adam Brothers to improve the house on two distinct phases (1775-6 and 1772-4).  Capability Brown was consulted over the grounds and suggested building, the still existing, grotto-like tunnel under the road joining the house to the riverside gardens.  In 1755-6 the octagonal Temple was constructed to entertain visitors and as a  tribute to Shakespeare.  Garrick commissioned Roubilica to make a burst of the Bard to be housed in the Temple.  Nowadays the Temple is open to the public and contains a replica of the burst.

One of the first pubs of many that we pass is the Weir, across from Sunbury, and looks out across the river to Sunbury Weir. It's not the first pub that we have passed and it won't be the last. The pub sign may not look anything like its local weir, but it is tasteful and painted by a well known local artist.

After crossing Walton Bridge (the old one now pedestrian only, and the adjacent new one for the traffic), we turn left down Walton Lane towards Halliford-on-Thames. The white house at the end of the lane, on the corner of the Lower Halliford Green,  was the last home to 19thC writer Thomas Love Peacock, appropriately the house is topped with a peacock weather vane.  Peacock died here at the age of 81, on 23rd January 1866, and is buried in Old Shepperton Cemetery, reached by a narrow road just north of Church Square.

Many other literary people also lived in Halliford, including George Meredith, Rider Haggard and Shelley.  Halliford (holy ford) got its name from a hermit, a holy man who lived here, in Anglo-Saxon times, by the ford, and is said to have performed miracles.  Legend has it that the Romans, under Julius Caesar, fought a battle here in 54 BC.  The village has connections with Lady Hamilton, Lord Nelson and many English Monarchs including King Edgar, Elizabeth I, Charles I and Charles II.  The short stretch, from the green to Shepperton Cross once had four pubs, now only two remain.

Around Church Square at Old Shepperton (shepherds' settlement), is a prime example of village survival.  There has been a church here since the 12th century. Although some of the original foundations are still thought to be in place, the current church dates from 1614. The rectangular bell tower was added in the early 18th century. North of the church is the rectory. Parts of the Rectory date from the 15th century. The excellent Queen Ann front was added around 1700.  Like with many old building stories of ghosts have emerged. In this case the ghost is said to be Erasmus, 15th century Dutch renaissance scholar,  a friend of William Grocyn, Rector of Shepperton from 1504 - 1513.

The square was handed over to the people of Shepperton by the Lord of the Manor in 1970 for them to enjoy. A plaque in the carpark of the Warren Lodge Hotel commemorates the occasion.

At one side of the St. Nicholas Church is the solitary grave of Mary Love Peacock.  She was the daughter of Thomas Love Peacock and died when ten months old.  Peacock wrote a poem to his baby daughter which he had inscribed on a headstone on the grave.  Although over 175 years old, the grave and headstone are well preserved and you can still read the poem.  A short exert is below.

"Lone night succeeds thy little day

Oh blighted blossom can it be,

That this grey stone and grassy clay

Have closed our anxious care of thee?"

Two old pubs stand on either end of the Square.   Nell Gwynne is said to have lodged in the Kings Head, and Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton to have visited the Anchor. The square is well known for illegal bare-knuckled fights being held here in the 18th and 19th centuries.  Through the years many famous people have lived (or stayed) in the village, including Charles Dickens, H G Wells, Jerome K Jerome, Gilbert and Sullivan, Judy Garland, Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor and Charlie Chaplin.  A statement in the entrance hall of The Anchor reads,

"Through these Portals have passed

The Rich, the famous. Prime Ministers, Statesmen, Politicians.

Notorious Personages of dubious character,  Wenches, Pugilists,

Visitors from the Colonies (including the Americas),  Sporting Gentry,

Vagabonds, Glamorous Artistes from the World of Motion Pictures, -

But the Most Important of Them All is You!"  

In the entrance to the Warren Lodge Hotel, at the opposite corner of the Square, are many memorandum to popular music, including Roger Daltry's gold disc for sales of "Tommy".  A mile to the north, near the vast Queen Mary Reservoir, are the famous Shepperton Film Studios.

Ferry Lane, as its name suggests, leads to the river and a privately run ferry that can take you over to Weybridge on the opposite band.  There are many islands on the river, in this area, and it's behind some of these that the River Wey and the Wey Navigation join the Thames.  Just past the ferry is Shepperton Lock and immediately after is the inviting Thames Court Hotel, with its cosy bar and large beer garden overlooking the river.

At nine miles we pass under Chertsey Bridge, a sign shows us the way. It was built over the Thames in 1780 - 82 by James Paine. Possibly my favourite Thames bridge and certainly one of the most tasteful.  A stones throw from the well preserved lock, a pub on either side, a riverside campsite and large open pastures to explore next to the river. 

Across the river in Chertsey Town a curfew bell in the church commemorates Blanche Heriot who, at the time of the Wars of the Roses, knowing that her lover was to be executed at curfew, climbed the church tower and hung on to the clapper of the bell until he was reprieved. Her courage inspired the ballad  ‘Curfew Must Not Ring Tonight’  by the American poet Rose Hardwick Thorpe.  A new memorial to Blanche has been built on the Chertsey side of the bridge. 

Alongside Windsor Street in Chertsey is the site of an old abbey (Chertsey Abbey). This Benedictine monastery was in Saxon times as important as Westminster and in Shakespeare it was here that Henry VI was sent to be buried - "Come now towards Chertsey with your holy load". Today very little remains of what was one of the greatest abbeys in England.  Founded in AD666, rebuilt during the 12thC, it was finally destroyed during the Reformation.  It is thought likely materials from the abbey were floated down river to be used in the construction of Hampton Court.

Chertsey Museum in the centre of the town, is a fine Regency town house and has many interesting displays including the 13th century Abbey Tiles.  Described by some as the most famous tiles in England.

Just before Chertsey Bridge is where Dickens placed a scene in Oliver Twist.  Bill Sikes and the poor Oliver travelled, mostly on foot, from Whitechapel. They met Sikes' confederate, Toby Crackit on the riverbank.  After some discussion and a nap, they proceeded to the scene of the crime "a solitary house all ruinous and decayed".

Just past Chertsey Bridge on the right are two adjoining white houses. The top window is painted, on the inside, with the bridge and two young lovers walking along the river on a fine Summer's day. I found out from the lady of the house that the glass painting was done by her daughter.

Shortly after the Chertsey Lock we pass under the M3 road bridge over the Thames.  You can hear the constant hum of the traffic, but from the tranquillity of the riverside it seems a long way away.

Around and beyond the motorway bridge is an area of gravel pits and reservoirs. Most of the pits have filled with water and some are used as boating lakes. There are parks, recreational areas popular for barbeques and picnics, riverside beaches for paddling and swimming, a solitary boathouse, an ice-cream van, gaps in the trees for anglers to test their skills, car-parks to rest your vehicles and 20 sleeping policemen to slow down the traffic along the narrow road. On the opposite bank there are many floating riverside residences. However, all in all it is an unspoilt, and very pleasant part of the Thames.

In the small Laleham riverside carpark a metal plaque on a tiny concrete base, under a tree and always surrounded by flowers, remembers Tony Kembery, known as "Kim" to his loved ones.

In January 2003, because of heavy rainfall, the Thames being unable to cope with the volume overflowed its banks and most of this area was flooded. The towpath and the road along the river were up to a metre under water. Chertsey Town and riverside residences took most of the brunt of the floods. Many of the locals blamed the opening of the new Jubilee Flood Relief Cut, upriver near Windsor, as the main cause. Sacrificing Chertsey and other downstream areas to save historic Windsor and Eton.

Laleham Reach is one of the most unspoilt parts of the Thames. During Summer months a lot of people come here for a day out. Driving along the narrow road on a hot day you can see thousands picnicking, having a bar-b-q and sunbathing beside the river and swimming from it's beaches. From Chertsey Bridge to Laleham it's almost 2 miles and 22 sleeping policemen keep the small amount of traffic to a relaxed pace.

Less than half a mile to the west is Thorpe Park with it's spectacular dome and many rides. People come from all over to get their thrills there.  Built on an island, surrounded by flooded gravel pits and staffed by students from all over the country. If you look to your left across the Thames you can make out the tops of the roller-coasters. 

Laleham (settlement by the willows) is reached next.  Laleham Abbey, set back from the river and visible from the route, has now being converted to flats, but was once home of the Earls of Lucan, a title associated with misfortune. The third earl giving the disastrous order to the Light Brigade to attack at Balaclava in 1855, and the seventh earl still missing after a murder in 1974. 

Laleham's most famous resident was Thomas Arnold, the great headmaster of Rugby School, who inspired Thomas Hughes to write the novel "Tom Brown's School Days". He was appointed to his position at Rugby largely on the reputation built up in his small private school at Laleham (1819 - 28).  He came to Laleham in 1819 with his brother-in-law John Buckland, who founded the English prep school system.  Six of Arnold's children, including poet Matthew, were born in the village.  Matthew Arnold and his three sons are buried in Laleham churchyard.

Many other famous people lived in Laleham, including Bob Hope, Gertrude Lawrence and Edward VII, when he was Prince of Wales, was a regular visitor at the Three Horseshoes public house when he stayed with the Lucan Family at Laleham House.

The route past Laleham keeps us on the towpath and because of this we miss many of the interesting features of Laleham Village.  For a historic walk around the village just follow the link.

At Penton Hook Lock we go straight past, but the main river doubles back on itself around the island.  The lock, when built, created the island and shortens the journey for pleasure crafts along the Thames.  The island itself is accessed by crossing the lock and is a joyous and peaceful area where you can stroll, paddle, relax and feel free and away from the hustle and bustle of the world. 

Pleasant houses, flats and riverboats line the river to Staines. Many of the houses built at an angle to give them a wider view to the river. It was in a bungalow along here that actress Ellen Terry once lived.  

Staines has been an important crossing point on the Thames since Roman times.  It was the site of the Roman town Pontes (bridges), a model of Pontes in the Spelthorne Museum, next to the Town Hall, shows what a large settlement Pontes was in AD150.

Staines Bridge was designed by Rennie and his son George.  It was opened with great ceremony by William IV in 1832.  It was the fifth bridge to be built here in fifty years.  The previous four, built 200m downstream from the current one, all failed. 

Just before the metal railway bridge, on our right is a small park and memorial commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria, June 1897.

On the riverside at Staines, a half of a mile past the bridge, sits the London Stone, dated 1781, marking the City of London’s former limit of jurisdiction on the Thames.  It was the highest point that the tide could be detected (that pleasure now belongs to Teddington Lock, just along from where we complete the course).  The current stone on this site is a replica of the original.  Recently I found the original London Stone lying unprotected under some scaffolding in what seemed to be an abandoned Town Hall.

Staines town hall was designed by John Johnson of Mansion House, London and was built in 1800 in Flemish style, if you look close at the front of the three dials on the clock you will notice two XI, one at 9 and one at 11.  The town hall was used for the court scene in the film Ghandi.  Recently it has been sold by Spelthorne Council, at a cut down price, and is more than likely to end up as a theme pub.  As for the London Stone, I could, if I was strong enough, picked it up and walked off with it.  I don't believe anyone would know that it was missing.

Next to the town hall is the site of the old market hall, where Sir Walter Raleigh was tried and condemned in 1603.  Facing the town hall is the Blue Anchor pub, notice that it still retains five false windows, owing their existence to an 19thC window tax.  Shortly after Market Square, the white building on the corner of Clarence Street and Bridge Street, dates from 1835.  It was used as the Literary and Scientific Institution, H G Wells is amongst those who lectured here.  It was Staines first library between 1950 - 79 and is presently occupied by the Showmen's' Guild.  The largest building on Bridge Street is headquarters of the Courage Brewery Company and was aptly built on the site of the Old Ashby Brewery.

Along the riverside, next to Staines Bridge, a new development of flats has been built on the site of the old cinema. It is called Thames Edge and has enabled a continuous walkway to the bridge. Many other parts of the riverside along here have been spruced up quite tastefully, with The Ha Ha Tavern, and Outback Steakhouse under the flats and facing onto the Thames. It is on the Thames Path, in front her that we now finish leg 1.