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The Route

A Map of the course has been produced by of Ian Hodge of Serpentine Running Club: Map

The Green Belt Relay meanders through beautiful countryside and passes many interesting sites. Described here are some of the landmarks that you'll see during the race and information connected to the course. I hope this helps to make your weekend a more enjoyable experience.

I am continually adding to the information below.  I have tried to keep the pictures big enough so they retain quality, but small enough that they download quickly. There is some good reading in these and I hope you enjoy it.

If you find any broken links, or know of anything worth adding, please e-mail me at sean.davis@lycos.co.uk

***    Click in the Leg Name to view a map of the Leg Route ***

Leg 1   - see Photos(Legs 1) for images of this leg
Starts at Hampton Court Palace, magnificent on the banks of the River Thames.  Cardinal Wolsey, son of an Ipswich butcher, was graced by ambition and ability to such an extent that at the age of 40 he had an income of £50,000 a year.  He was thus able to build the grandest private house in England. Work began in 1514.  Henry VIII was offended by the unashamed ostentation of his lieutenant.  Wolsey fell from grace when he failed to secure the annulment of Henry VIII’s marriage to Catherine of Aragon.  In 1529, as a last desperate attempt to buy his way back into royal favour, he presented the palace to the king.  Henry accepted, but never forgave his cardinal.  The following year Henry summoned Wolsey to answer charges of treason.  Weak in both mind and body, the dejected cleric set off from his see in York, but never made it to Henry's court.  He died en route at Leicester wishing "I served God as diligently as I served my King". 

In its grounds are many ornamental gardens, many direction signs done in good taste show the way to them all.

The Great Vine (planted in 1789), claimed to be the oldest in the world, the Maze (where Harris, one of Jerome K. Jerome’s "Three Men in a Boat", got hopelessly lost along with 20 followers and a keeper), Wren’s Banqueting House, the Royal Tennis Court, the Great Kitchens, the Long Water and much more. The Palace nowadays is run by the Historical Royal Palaces, whose headquarters is based at Hampton Court.  Summer events include the Hampton Court Festival and the Hampton Court Flower Show.  If you do have time spend a day here, take time and do it.  On a recent visit, with my eldest daughter, I was privileged to come across Elaine Page rehearsing with an orchestra for a concert that evening, I only missed Pavarotti the day before.  Of all the places I have been in the UK, Hampton Court is one of my favourite. I have played golf in it's grounds, I have been paid by my company to recruit for staff there, I have often ran through the grounds incorporating runs through Bushy Park, along the Thames and even from Richmond Park. To be able to run free through such a beautiful surroundings is incredible. People come from all over the world to marvel at the splendour and history. To really appreciate the palace, you have to go inside, this you pay for, yet it's not expensive for a day you'll remember for the rest of your life.

In 1999 we were helped on our way from the start by the Royal College of Science Student Union Motorised Mascot "Jezebel", a 1916 Dennis N-Type working fire engine.

Just outside the grounds of the Palace there are many other places to see.  Christopher Wren lived close to the main entrance, his house is two along on the left, past the roundabout.  Michael Faraday's House is next door to Wren's. 

To the north of the palace is Bushy Park, with its chestnut trees, Diana Fountain, Woodland Gardens, herds of deer and was headquarters to the Allies during World war II. The park came up as a site for a London airport just after the war, but it got retrieved when a cabinet minister pulled a quick one on the House of Commons to get permission to have a military airport built over a village called Heathrow. His real intentions were not voiced and we still are lucky to have Bushy Park as it was laid out many hundreds of years ago.

When crossing the bridge look back, for a good view, across the river to the palace.

The leg is mainly Thames towpath.  Crosses the Thames at two points, Hampton Court and Walton  Bridges.  Diverts on road, past Shepperton Square and then again along the Thames, past, Shepperton, Chertsey and Penton Hook Locks to finish just before Staines bridge.

Hampton Court Bridge, opened by the Prince of Wales in 1933, was designed by Lutyens. It is concrete, but so as to blend with the Palace, is faced with narrow red bricks and great quantities of Portland stone for dressings and balustrades.

Just before joining the Thames Towpath we pass the War Memorial at East Molesey. Across the river many expensive boats are moored at the Thames Motor Yacht Club. Care must be taken as soon the busy boat houses of Hampton School and Molesey Boat Club. The latter being famous for the Olympic Gold winners, the Searle Brothers and their crying cox. Molesey Lock is on our right as we join the towpath. The footbridge across the weir is used by residents of Ash Island, the island having a weir both sides.

A huge amount of people live on or next to the Thames, the exact number I wouldn't like to guess, but I'm sure it's enough to populate a small city. One of the first river communities we pass is that of Tagg's Island, the houseboats lined bow to stern along its shore. In contrast the neighbouring  Swan Island, as it's aptly named, is only inhabited by swans.

After a short distance along the towpath we pass Hurst Park, once a racecourse but now has given way to a housing development.  "The little race-course at Hampton" was where a scene from Dickens' Nicholas Nickleby was set.  Across the river you can see Hampton (village on dry land) clustered around its church, St Mary's.  Hampton House can be seen facing the river, and is where actor David Garrick retired to in 1754. Garrick employed the Adam Brothers to improve the house on two distinct phases (1775-6 and 1772-4).  Capability Brown was consulted over the grounds and suggested building, the still existing, grotto-like tunnel under the road joining the house to the riverside gardens.  In 1755-6 the octagonal Temple was constructed to entertain visitors and as a  tribute to Shakespeare.  Garrick commissioned Roubilica to make a burst of the Bard to be housed in the Temple.  Nowadays the Temple is open to the public and contains a replica of the burst.

One of the first pubs of many that we pass is the Weir, across from Sunbury, and looks out across the river to Sunbury Weir. It's not the first pub that we have passed and it won't be the last. The pub sign may not look anything like its local weir, but it is tasteful and painted by a well known local artist.

After crossing Walton Bridge (the old one now pedestrian only, and the adjacent new one for the traffic), we turn left down Walton Lane towards Halliford-on-Thames. The white house at the end of the lane, on the corner of the Lower Halliford Green,  was the last home to 19thC writer Thomas Love Peacock, appropriately the house is topped with a peacock weather vane.  Peacock died here at the age of 81, on 23rd January 1866, and is buried in Old Shepperton Cemetery, reached by a narrow road just north of Church Square.

Many other literary people also lived in Halliford, including George Meredith, Rider Haggard and Shelley.  Halliford (holy ford) got its name from a hermit, a holy man who lived here, in Anglo-Saxon times, by the ford, and is said to have performed miracles.  Legend has it that the Romans, under Julius Caesar, fought a battle here in 54 BC.  The village has connections with Lady Hamilton, Lord Nelson and many English Monarchs including King Edgar, Elizabeth I, Charles I and Charles II.  The short stretch, from the green to Shepperton Cross once had four pubs, now only two remain.

Around Church Square at Old Shepperton (shepherds' settlement), is a prime example of village survival.  There has been a church here since the 12th century. Although some of the original foundations are still thought to be in place, the current church dates from 1614. The rectangular bell tower was added in the early 18th century. North of the church is the rectory. Parts of the Rectory date from the 15th century. The excellent Queen Ann front was added around 1700.  Like with many old building stories of ghosts have emerged. In this case the ghost is said to be Erasmus, 15th century Dutch renaissance scholar,  a friend of William Grocyn, Rector of Shepperton from 1504 - 1513.

The square was handed over to the people of Shepperton by the Lord of the Manor in 1970 for them to enjoy. A plaque in the carpark of the Warren Lodge Hotel commemorates the occasion.

At one side of the St. Nicholas Church is the solitary grave of Mary Love Peacock.  She was the daughter of Thomas Love Peacock and died when ten months old.  Peacock wrote a poem to his baby daughter which he had inscribed on a headstone on the grave.  Although over 175 years old, the grave and headstone are well preserved and you can still read the poem.  A short exert is below.

"Lone night succeeds thy little day

Oh blighted blossom can it be,

That this grey stone and grassy clay

Have closed our anxious care of thee?"

Two old pubs stand on either end of the Square.   Nell Gwynne is said to have lodged in the Kings Head, and Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton to have visited the Anchor. The square is well known for illegal bare-knuckled fights being held here in the 18th and 19th centuries.  Through the years many famous people have lived (or stayed) in the village, including Charles Dickens, H G Wells, Jerome K Jerome, Gilbert and Sullivan, Judy Garland, Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor and Charlie Chaplin.  A statement in the entrance hall of The Anchor reads,

"Through these Portals have passed

The Rich, the famous. Prime Ministers, Statesmen, Politicians.

Notorious Personages of dubious character,  Wenches, Pugilists,

Visitors from the Colonies (including the Americas),  Sporting Gentry,

Vagabonds, Glamorous Artistes from the World of Motion Pictures, -

But the Most Important of Them All is You!"  

In the entrance to the Warren Lodge Hotel, at the opposite corner of the Square, are many memorandum to popular music, including Roger Daltry's gold disc for sales of "Tommy".  A mile to the north, near the vast Queen Mary Reservoir, are the famous Shepperton Film Studios.

Ferry Lane, as its name suggests, leads to the river and a privately run ferry that can take you over to Weybridge on the opposite band.  There are many islands on the river, in this area, and it's behind some of these that the River Wey and the Wey Navigation join the Thames.  Just past the ferry is Shepperton Lock and immediately after is the inviting Thames Court Hotel, with its cosy bar and large beer garden overlooking the river.

At nine miles we pass under Chertsey Bridge, a sign shows us the way. It was built over the Thames in 1780 - 82 by James Paine. Possibly my favourite Thames bridge and certainly one of the most tasteful.  A stones throw from the well preserved lock, a pub on either side, a riverside campsite and large open pastures to explore next to the river. 

Across the river in Chertsey Town a curfew bell in the church commemorates Blanche Heriot who, at the time of the Wars of the Roses, knowing that her lover was to be executed at curfew, climbed the church tower and hung on to the clapper of the bell until he was reprieved. Her courage inspired the ballad  ‘Curfew Must Not Ring Tonight’  by the American poet Rose Hardwick Thorpe.  A new memorial to Blanche has been built on the Chertsey side of the bridge. 

Alongside Windsor Street in Chertsey is the site of an old abbey (Chertsey Abbey). This Benedictine monastery was in Saxon times as important as Westminster and in Shakespeare it was here that Henry VI was sent to be buried - "Come now towards Chertsey with your holy load". Today very little remains of what was one of the greatest abbeys in England.  Founded in AD666, rebuilt during the 12thC, it was finally destroyed during the Reformation.  It is thought likely materials from the abbey were floated down river to be used in the construction of Hampton Court.

Chertsey Museum in the centre of the town, is a fine Regency town house and has many interesting displays including the 13th century Abbey Tiles.  Described by some as the most famous tiles in England.

Just before Chertsey Bridge is where Dickens placed a scene in Oliver Twist.  Bill Sikes and the poor Oliver travelled, mostly on foot, from Whitechapel. They met Sikes' confederate, Toby Crackit on the riverbank.  After some discussion and a nap, they proceeded to the scene of the crime "a solitary house all ruinous and decayed".

Just past Chertsey Bridge on the right are two adjoining white houses. The top window is painted, on the inside, with the bridge and two young lovers walking along the river on a fine Summer's day. I found out from the lady of the house that the glass painting was done by her daughter.

Shortly after the Chertsey Lock we pass under the M3 road bridge over the Thames.  You can hear the constant hum of the traffic, but from the tranquillity of the riverside it seems a long way away.

Around and beyond the motorway bridge is an area of gravel pits and reservoirs. Most of the pits have filled with water and some are used as boating lakes. There are parks, recreational areas popular for barbeques and picnics, riverside beaches for paddling and swimming, a solitary boathouse, an ice-cream van, gaps in the trees for anglers to test their skills, car-parks to rest your vehicles and 20 sleeping policemen to slow down the traffic along the narrow road. On the opposite bank there are many floating riverside residences. However, all in all it is an unspoilt, and very pleasant part of the Thames.

In the small Laleham riverside carpark a metal plaque on a tiny concrete base, under a tree and always surrounded by flowers, remembers Tony Kembery, known as "Kim" to his loved ones.

In January 2003, because of heavy rainfall, the Thames being unable to cope with the volume overflowed its banks and most of this area was flooded. The towpath and the road along the river were up to a metre under water. Chertsey Town and riverside residences took most of the brunt of the floods. Many of the locals blamed the opening of the new Jubilee Flood Relief Cut, upriver near Windsor, as the main cause. Sacrificing Chertsey and other downstream areas to save historic Windsor and Eton.

Laleham Reach is one of the most unspoilt parts of the Thames. During Summer months a lot of people come here for a day out. Driving along the narrow road on a hot day you can see thousands picnicking, having a bar-b-q and sunbathing beside the river and swimming from it's beaches. From Chertsey Bridge to Laleham it's almost 2 miles and 22 sleeping policemen keep the small amount of traffic to a relaxed pace.

Less than half a mile to the west is Thorpe Park with it's spectacular dome and many rides. People come from all over to get their thrills there.  Built on an island, surrounded by flooded gravel pits and staffed by students from all over the country. If you look to your left across the Thames you can make out the tops of the roller-coasters. 

Laleham (settlement by the willows) is reached next.  Laleham Abbey, set back from the river and visible from the route, has now being converted to flats, but was once home of the Earls of Lucan, a title associated with misfortune. The third earl giving the disastrous order to the Light Brigade to attack at Balaclava in 1855, and the seventh earl still missing after a murder in 1974. 

Laleham's most famous resident was Thomas Arnold, the great headmaster of Rugby School, who inspired Thomas Hughes to write the novel "Tom Brown's School Days". He was appointed to his position at Rugby largely on the reputation built up in his small private school at Laleham (1819 - 28).  He came to Laleham in 1819 with his brother-in-law John Buckland, who founded the English prep school system.  Six of Arnold's children, including poet Matthew, were born in the village.  Matthew Arnold and his three sons are buried in Laleham churchyard.

Many other famous people lived in Laleham, including Bob Hope, Gertrude Lawrence and Edward VII, when he was Prince of Wales, was a regular visitor at the Three Horseshoes public house when he stayed with the Lucan Family at Laleham House.

The route past Laleham keeps us on the towpath and because of this we miss many of the interesting features of Laleham Village.  For a historic walk around the village just follow the link.

At Penton Hook Lock we go straight past, but the main river doubles back on itself around the island.  The lock, when built, created the island and shortens the journey for pleasure crafts along the Thames.  The island itself is accessed by crossing the lock and is a joyous and peaceful area where you can stroll, paddle, relax and feel free and away from the hustle and bustle of the world. 

Pleasant houses, flats and riverboats line the river to Staines. Many of the houses built at an angle to give them a wider view to the river. It was in a bungalow along here that actress Ellen Terry once lived.  

Staines has been an important crossing point on the Thames since Roman times.  It was the site of the Roman town Pontes (bridges), a model of Pontes in the Spelthorne Museum, next to the Town Hall, shows what a large settlement Pontes was in AD150.

Staines Bridge was designed by Rennie and his son George.  It was opened with great ceremony by William IV in 1832.  It was the fifth bridge to be built here in fifty years.  The previous four, built 200m downstream from the current one, all failed. 

Just before the metal railway bridge, on our right is a small park and memorial commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria, June 1897.

On the riverside at Staines, a half of a mile past the bridge, sits the London Stone, dated 1781, marking the City of London’s former limit of jurisdiction on the Thames.  It was the highest point that the tide could be detected (that pleasure now belongs to Teddington Lock, just along from where we complete the course).  The current stone on this site is a replica of the original.  Recently I found the original London Stone lying unprotected under some scaffolding in what seemed to be an abandoned Town Hall.

Staines town hall was designed by John Johnson of Mansion House, London and was built in 1800 in Flemish style, if you look close at the front of the three dials on the clock you will notice two XI, one at 9 and one at 11.  The town hall was used for the court scene in the film Ghandi.  Recently it has been sold by Spelthorne Council, at a cut down price, and is more than likely to end up as a theme pub.  As for the London Stone, I could, if I was strong enough, picked it up and walked off with it.  I don't believe anyone would know that it was missing.

Next to the town hall is the site of the old market hall, where Sir Walter Raleigh was tried and condemned in 1603.  Facing the town hall is the Blue Anchor pub, notice that it still retains five false windows, owing their existence to an 19thC window tax.  Shortly after Market Square, the white building on the corner of Clarence Street and Bridge Street, dates from 1835.  It was used as the Literary and Scientific Institution, H G Wells is amongst those who lectured here.  It was Staines first library between 1950 - 79 and is presently occupied by the Showmen's' Guild.  The largest building on Bridge Street is headquarters of the Courage Brewery Company and was aptly built on the site of the Old Ashby Brewery.

Along the riverside, next to Staines Bridge, a new development of flats has been built on the site of the old cinema. It is called Thames Edge and has enabled a continuous walkway to the bridge. Many other parts of the riverside along here have been spruced up quite tastefully, with The Ha Ha Tavern, and Outback Steakhouse under the flats and facing onto the Thames. It is on the Thames Path, in front her that we now finish leg 1.

 

Leg 2. - see Photos(Legs 2) for images of this leg
Towpath and parkland - route follows the Thames before crossing the road and going up a big hill past the John F Kennedy Memorial at two miles. The acre of ground around the memorial is officially a small part of the United States of America.

To start we climb up some steps and cross the Thames using Staines Bridge. Then immediately back onto the Thames Path going west.

After a mile after we pass under the bridges carrying the M25 and the A30. The road bridges are only separated by three metres and together tower over us for 80 metres.  The M25 bridge was built in 1978 and the A30 in 1961 and designed by Lutyens 20 years earlier.  During the construction archaeologists uncovered a Bronze Age settlement site, which overlaid a much older Neolithic site.

Shortly after the bridges is Bell Weir Lock and just past the houses we round a bend where across the river, once stood the Benedictine nunnery of Ankerwycke.  Now an area of parkland acquired by the National Trust in 1998 and containing the remains of the 12th-century St Mary's Priory and the Ankerwycke Yew - a magnificent tree believed to be over 2000 years old.

Runnymede is a broad riverside meadow, where King John sealed Magna Carta on 15th June 1215. The charter formed the basis of an individual's right to justice and liberty.  Many modern day constitutions, including that of the USA, are based on the charter.  A Magna Carta memorial, presented by the American Bar Association in 1957, stands at the foot of Coopers Hill.

At the top of the hill is the striking Airforces' Memorial.  Designed by Sir Edward Maufe R.A. and unveiled by HM Queen Elizabeth II on 17 October 1953, it was the first new building to be designated Grade I listed status after the war. It is administered by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. From the top of the tower visitors can see Windsor Castle, Runnymede and breathtaking views of seven counties.  A tribute to "the men and women of the Airforces of the British Commonwealth who lost their lives in the Second World War and who have no known grave".  There are 20,455 names carved in the stone walls and floors.

We climb the steps to and past the JFK Memorial (50 steps, for the 50th President, killed in his 50th year). The memorial is made of Portland stone to the design of G.A. Jellicoe and was unveiled by HM Queen Elizabeth II on 14 May 1965 in the presence of President Kennedy's widow and children.

Shortly after we pass a campus of Brunel University and along Bishopsgate to enter Windsor Great Park.  The Fox & Hounds, next to Bishop's Gate, is a pleasant English country pub, and a good place to stop for some real ale and good food.

Going through Windsor Great Park,  the run passes The Copper Horse, erected in 1831, with George III on top, at one end of The Long Walk, and continues for three miles to the castle at the other end.  Windsor Castle is the largest in the country, with 13 acres inside its curtain wall, and stands on a cliff above the Thames, looking down on both the river and the town.  William the Conqueror built the first castle here.  The current one dates from 1160, but there have been many additions over the years.  Many monarchs are buried here, including, Henry VIII, Charles I and Edward VII.

There are many wonderful things to see in the castle including the magnificent 15thC St George's Chapel.  A lot of the castle is now open to the public, following the repairs after the fire that gutted many of the state apartments in 1992. 

Just outside the main entrance to the castle is Queen Victoria's statue, placed here in 1887 to commemorate her 50th year on the throne.  Between the statue and the castle is the entrance to Church Street, a delightful cobbled stoned street, lined with many old interesting buildings.  They include Nell Gwyn's House.  Dating from 1640, this was home to Charles II's famous mistress, it's alleged that her ghost can be sometimes heard walking through the house.  Just past this is the Old King's Head which dates from 1626.  It was here in 1648 that a group of leading Parliamentarians met to resolve that King Charles I "should be prosecuted for his life as a criminal person".  A reproduction of the signed death warrant can be seen on a wall of the building. The pub is also said to be where William Shakespeare wrote "The Merry Wives of Windsor"

On High Street is  Christopher Wren's Guildhall, built in 1687.  In his original design, he intended only an outer set of pillars.  However the council was not convinced and made him build a second.  He complied, but proved his point.  If you look close, you will see that there is a gap above the inner pillars, hence bearing no load.  

There are so many things to see in Windsor and I could go on for pages, but will stop here.  To find out more, follow the links to  Windsor Castle. and Windsor.

Runners should be wary of the many people there to watch the changing of the guard, as they continue around the castle and over the pedestrian bridge to Eton (look out for Christopher Wren’s house on the right).

Eton College was founded by Henry VI in 1440, with its many old buildings and valued treasures, including the original of Grays Elegy amongst its manuscripts. It was originally built to provide free education for 70 poor scholars, who would then go on to further their education at King's College, Cambridge. The college has now 1280 boys aged from 13 to 18 and is one of the world's most exclusive schools.  Eton has educated 18 former British Prime Ministers including the Duke Of Wellington, Walpole, Pitt the Elder, Macmillan and Douglas-Holme.  The college is famous for rowing, but until the 1840s the river was out of bounds to the boys.  However during this time, if a master saw a boy heading for the river, he took no action provided the boy raised his arm in front of his face in a ritualistic gesture which indicated that he shouldn't be there. The boy was theoretically invisible, nothing was said and honour was saved. Hence "saving face".

Some of the traffic signs around Eton are a touch one-sided and I am surprised that in this age of political correctness the college has not been taken to task about them.

Eton High Street is a delight, with many old shops, inns, restaurants and hotels. The oldest being the Cockpit, a half-timbered building dating from 1420.  This was once the setting for the barbaric sport of cock-fighting and now a is restaurant.  The original cockpit still exists behind the building and is one on the only remaining in the country.  It is said that the building is haunted by a little old lady who flirts between the tables, as if looking for something lost.  Her manner is so unobtrusive, that successive owners have left her to her own devices.

Following the river from Windsor to Maidenhead is peaceful, but the towpath can be narrow and in places congested. The leg passes under a lengthy viaduct, which carries the railway over the Thames and an extra mile across ground once liable to flooding.  We shortly pass a swan sanctuary with Windsor Racecourse and the Royal Marina on the opposite bank.  Boveney Lock, usually queued with pleasure craft, has a novel sculpture next to the path.  A fishtail points the destinations in both directions.

Shortly after the lock we come to an old church (St Mary Magdalene, partly 13th cent.) and some beautiful old houses set only a couple of hundred yards back from the river.  It is on the river by the church that we finish the leg.

Leg 3.- see Photos(Legs 3) for images of this leg
Shortly after the start, through the trees to the right you can catch sight of a well designed modern building. This is the boathouse at Dorney Lake, a purpose built rowing lake.  It was opened in 2000, is the property of Eton College and extends, parallel to the river, for a mile and a half.  Currently it is part of London's Olympic bid for the 2012 Olympics.

 One mile further along look across the river to see Oakley Court.   A magnificent Victorian, gothic, turreted house of 1859 and now hotel.  Here is where Hammer Films made their early horror films, including the Dracula ones.  It was also responsible for The Rocky Horror Picture Show and Alien. If you look back down the river you can see the boats queuing for position after coming out of the lock.

 Next to Oakley Court is Down Place , a pretty 18thC riverside mansion and once meeting place of the Kit Kat Club.  Steele, Addison, Walpole and Congreve were members. It now houses Bray Studios.  Monkey Island (just before the new M4 bridge) has the fishing lodge and pavilion of the 3rd Duke of Marlborough, built in 1744 and now a hotel. In one of the restaurant rooms there are monkey paintings, by Clermont, on the ceiling.  The name of the island, however, is a derivation of Monk’s Eyot.  The words eyot, eyte and ayt being old English words meaning island, you will come across many of these as you go along the River Thames.

Shortly after the M4 bridge, the church and village, on the opposite side, is that of Bray - famous for its legendary vicar (The Vicar of Bray).  Another old legend tells of further trouble from a more sinister source.

The railway bridge, just after five miles, was built by Brunel in 1839, the two arches, each 123ft long, are reputedly the largest brickwork spans in the world and are known as "The Sounding Arches" because of the perfect echo.  Turner used this bridge as the setting of his painting "Rain, Steam and Speed"

At 5 miles we cross Maidenhead Bridge which carries the A4, a beautiful balustrade bridge built in Portland stone by Sir Robert Taylor 1772-7.  The relay continues north past Boulter’s Lock (made famous by E.J.Gregory's painting "Ascot Sunday" (1895))  and along the Thames towards Cookham.  Just across the river you may get a glimpse of Cliveden House, a hotel leased by the National Trust, it was built by Charles Barry in 1851.  It became the home of the Astor family when it was bought by the 1st Viscount in 1893.  It later became a centre of literary and political society under the 2nd Viscount Astor and his wife Nancy.  Henry James, Rudyard Kipling and Churchill were among guests entertained here.  Nancy Astor is famous for being the first woman to take her seat in the House of Commons on 28th November 1919.  The house was the background to many 20thC political intrigues and scandals. In the early half of the 20thC the Astors who owned Cliveden were strong opponents of confrontation with the Nazi Germany. They and their supporters were known as the Cliveden Set. The final scandal was the Profumo Affair in 1963. The house also boasts a theatre that heard the first performance of Rule Britannia.

The part of the Thames between Boulter's Lock and Cookham is called Cliveden (valley by the cliffs) Reach. This is one of the most beautiful stretches of the Thames, with hanging woods of beeches and pines.

The delightful village of Cookham is home to the ancient Tarry Stone, a mounting block or possibly a meteorite, and on which a tablet recalls games played here in 1507.  Painter Sir Stanley Spencer (1891-1959) lived and worked in Cookham and much of his work is splendidly exhibited in the old Wesleyan Chapel and the Stanley Spencer Gallery.  His "Last Supper", painted in 1920 hangs in the Holy Trinity Church. On the way through the churchyard a stone tablet next to the path commemorates the painter.

In the third week of July, Her Majesty’s Swan Keeper takes to his boat with a supply of ‘tea’ (an intoxicating mixture of dark rum and milk) to mark the swans, together with representatives of the Vintners’ and Dyers’ Companies, in their double sculling skiffs. This colourful event is called "Swan Upping".

After the death of his mother in 1864, Kenneth Grahame spent some of his childhood living with his grandmother, two sisters and brother at "the Mount", on the river, at Cookham Dene.  In later life, when an official at the Bank of England, in order to amuse his small son, Mouse, he wrote a fantasy called "The Wind in the Willows".  It's scenes must be based along this stretch of the Thames, with Quarry Wood on Winter Hill featuring as "the Wild Wood". 

The narrow iron bridge, at Cookham, was built in 1867 and has just been repainted.  The route goes through the churchyard, which Spencer used as the setting for his painting "the Resurrection in Cookham", and left along the Thames for a mile.  We cross to Bourne End using the footbridge attached to the side of the railway bridge

The riverside at Bourne End is a mixture of old and modern buildings, many squeezed in between the railway and the Thames. The river is wide here and the area is very popular for rowing, sailing and motor boats. Our route takes us past two level crossings and along a broad riverside meadow, before turning right and along a path away from the river, across the railway, and up a path to finish at the peaceful village of Little Marlow.  It was here in 1998 that Scary Spice. The village still holds the remains of a 14thC Benedictine nunnery and has a gabled Jacobean manor house.  Next to the manor house is the Church of St John the Baptist, of Norman origin with a fine 14thC tower.  Edgar Wallace is buried in the churchyard. There are two lovely English country pubs here, the King's Head and the Queen's Head, the latter having being used in the TV series Inspector Morse.

If time permits, why not divert slightly off course to Marlow.  A pleasant Thames Georgian town with white suspension bridge, built by Tierney Clarke in 1831-6.  Shelley’s house in West Street where his wife, Mary, created Frankenstein and where he wrote "The Revolt of Islam".

 

Leg 4. - see Photos(Legs 4) for images of this leg
Tough and hilly with many steep climbs and mostly off road. This leg takes us up around the back of High Wycombe and into the Chilterns.  For those who like climbing hills, you'll enjoy this stage. It's a bit like a roller coaster, a long gradual climb at the start, many short sharp climbs and falls, but all in all six major climbs and each one a long and hard slog.  However, I know that you'll enjoy ever step of the way.

We start at the entrance to Wilton Farm.  Just inside the entrance is the farm shop, called Emmett's Farm Shop".  Produce from the farm, and much more, is on display and for sale.  Philip Emmett, owner of Wilton Farm, is always obliging and gives us permission each year to park a few cars in the carpark and start the stage next to the entrance.

The first three miles is a climb up Winchbottom Lane. The lane is quiet, wooded and hilly on both sides. This is our first introduction to the sweeping hills of the Chilterns. At the top of the climb we pass down the side of the pub at Handy Cross and through a conveniently situated tunnel under the M40 and along a path parallel to the motorway.  Limmer Lane brings us past the Live and Let Live Pub, which hides in the woods, and into Booker Common.  Back up onto High Barbers Wood and Sunters Wood, both beautiful, lonely and peaceful.  They seem to be protected by the council yet underused by the locals.  On the climb to Druid's Hut you can look down into the football ground of Wycombe Wanderers. 

Some of the paths through the woods can be rough underfoot, with flint-stones making it uneven in places.  When wet, these stones can be very slippery and a lot of care needs to be taken.

The lane around the back of West Wycombe House is a private road but also a public footpath. Along here there are good views of the House, its grounds and of the surrounding valleys and hills.  West Wycombe Village, like the House is owned by the National Trust. There are many things to see here, including the caves, the mausoleum, the temple and of course the whole village.  Apart from the A40 going through the village, everything feels set back in time. In the late seventeen hundreds the House was the home of Sir Francis Dashwood, founder of the notorious "Hellfire Club".

The rolling scenery of the Chilterns at sometimes looks unnaturally smooth, and on climbing them  out of the village you will see what I mean. Look back across the railway to the mausoleum on the hill, look right to see isolated fields roll from both sides of the valley and look at the path in front to see the climb that faces you. I have been unable to find any history about the narrow path we follow, but there are well matured trees and banks on either side.  Maybe we are running along an old river bed or ancient track.

Past the house and through the grounds of Hughenden Manor (once home to the D’Israeli Family and now National Trust).  In the little churchyard, below the house, you can see D’Israeli’s grave.  On many a summer's day, when checking the route, I have stopped here with my children and others to picnic, look at the views and watch the cattle cool themselves down in the river. 

For convenience and speed we use the footpath  along the main road from Hughenden House. However, an alternative and more scenic path follows the river through the fields, but beware of the cattle.

The final mile of the leg takes of up Boss Lane and past Piper's Corner School to finish on the green at Great Kingshill.  The climb up Boss Lane is a good one.  On the way we pass Boss Lane House, dating from the 17thC and reputed to be used by Churchill for cabinet meetings during the Second World War.  The house next door is also of note hand has a beautifully decorated old wooden shed (once possibly a gypsy caravan) in its gardens,

 

Leg 5.- see Photos(Legs 5) for images of this leg
The longest and one of the most interesting and scenic legs of the relay.  Over thirteen miles, a lot of which goes cross country, through the rolling hills of the Chilterns.

The stage starts behind the cricket pavilion, next to Great Kingshill Green. We need to be careful not to upset the local cricketers who start their match at approximately the same time.

The South Bucks Way takes us through Little Boys Heath to the beautiful village of Little Missenden and along the banks of the River Misbourne through the grounds of the Shardeloes Estate.  The path to Little Missenden shows some of the Chilterns at their best, with the huge fields, rolling hills and views going off into the distance.

For some reason unknown to me, the South Bucks Way bypasses Little Missenden.  Our route takes us through the village.  There is much to see here and a bypass to the north keeps traffic away.  The church dates from 975AD and has a 17thC wall painting of St Christopher.  Most of the little village is old and steeped in history.  Missenden House was built in 1728 and the Manor House is Jacobean.  At a junction the wooden sculpture of an old man points the way and just past this, the Red Lion Pub has a pleasant riverside beer garden.

After leaving Little Missenden we rejoin the South Bucks Way, following the River Misbourne through the Shardeloes Estate.  Shardeloes House was an early work of Robert Adam.  The smaller lower house was also one of his works.  Shardeloes is the ancestral home of the Tyrwhitt Drake family.  History has it that a curse befell the family, stopping any direct heir from inheriting the family wealth. The curse being placed by the family of a boy murdered at sea whilst in the Drake family employ.  The house has now been converted into luxury flats.  During World War II it served as a maternity hospital for Londoners to come to the countryside and have their children, over 5000 children were born here.  Myth has it, if the lake at Shardeloes dries up, then England will fall - though possibly a little out of date nowadays.

Before leaving the grounds of Shardeloes, we pass through the grounds of Amersham Cricket Club, and during a weekend afternoon be careful not to disturb the players.

Across the River Misbourne and along the wide Main Street of Old Amersham, before going left through the churchyard, and climbing steeply up past the Amersham Martyr’s Memorial - the view behind is of Old Amersham, with the Chilterns rolling into the distance.  The Martyrs were burnt here in 1531, children of two were made to light the fires.

Old Amersham is steeped in history and scenes from many movies and TV dramas were filmed here, including Three Weddings and a Funeral.  See the Amersham website for more details.

Two more tough climbs and the relay cuts through Chiltern Forest, crosses the Chess Valley and past Latimer House, Elizabethan, but rebuilt.  The house is a red brick pile, built for the Cavendish Family in 1863.  It has Charles I associations and is now a conference centre.  Crossing the narrow bridge below, look left to see the statue of a large naked man guard the wall of the reservoir.

Latimer village is built around a small green.  The green has two memorial relating to the Boer War.  The larger is to those locals that died during the war and the smaller to "the horse ridden by General de Villebois Mareuil at the battle of Boshof, South Africa, 5th April 1900 in which the General was killed and the horse wounded".  The horse was brought to England by Major General Lord Chesham KCB, and died on 5th February 1911.

On the way to Flaunden, watch out for the statue of a green dragon peering over a hedge on the left.  You'll see the significance of the dragon as you round the next bend.

Flaunden has many half-timbered buildings and mellow brick cottages.  The church was built in 1838 and the first designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott.

A short while later off road we go again, on to the Hertfordshire Way, to finish beside the war memorial on Chipperfield Green.  There is the old church and many interesting buildings around the green. The Queen Ann fronted Manor House was once home to actor Peter Sellars, the Two Brewers Inn was at one time a training house for bare-knuckle fighters and the old flint school, now cottages, retains the original school's striking clock, erected to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee.

The common itself has many beautiful walks and is steeped in history, with bronze-age tumuli, 14thC Dominican Friars, the Apostles Pond and 350 year old sweet chestnut trees planted for Isabel of Castile, the first Duchess of York.

 

Leg 6.- see Photos (Legs 6) for images of this leg
At 8.5 miles, this is one of the shorter legs, but is no less interesting than any of the others.

After two miles we enter Kings Langley, a large village in the Gade Valley, (Langley being a long meadow or clearing).   Edward de Langley, the first Duke of York and fifth son of Edward III, was born in the Royal Palace.  His tomb and that of his first wife Isabel of Castile are in the All Saints Church adjacent to the Village Green (at 2.1 miles).  The Palace was built, in 1341 under the supervision of Eleanor of Castile, wife of Edward I.  It was used as Royal Residence by Edward I, II and III, Richard II and Henry V.  During the Black Death of 1349, it was used by Edward III as his seat of government.  It is also mentioned by Shakespeare in Richard II.  Sadly very little of the Palace remains.  However it is worth going a few yards off route to the area around the Old Palace Pub. A house opposite has old remains in it's front garden as does the garden of the pub, and nearby in 1970 a 60ft wine cellar was uncovered.  All of these hold claims to being part of the Royal Palace, or the older Royal Priory.

It is at Kings Langley we join the Grand Union Canal, for a short distance, before taking a path up and under the railway line (watch your head) and towards Bedmond.

Nicholas Breakespear was born at Bedmond Farm in 1100, and is the only Englishman to become Pope (there was also an Englishwoman Pope).  After failing to qualify to enter St Albans Abbey, he went abroad to study and became Pope in 1154.  He took the name Adrian IV and died in 1st September 1159, history has it that he granted Henry II permission to conquer Ireland.

At 4.6 miles, Bedmond's Tin Church (or the Church of the Ascension) was built in 1880.  I can't find any connection with the local Pope, but every time I see it, I am reminded of something from a child's book.

Shortly after the church we pass Funny Farm. The owner's children living up to the name, as every time we passed, the two statues at the entrance were always dressed in different clothes with a caption to go with. However, from the caption in the picture it seems that they got fed up with rogues trying to spoil their show.

Narrow country lanes take us past the Holy Bush pub at Potters Crouch, cross-country under the M10 and eventually into St Albans.  Our route goes through Verulamium Park, along the Roman Wall to the middle of St Albans. Just before the River Ver, we turn right to finish at the Leisure Centre.  You get good views of the Abbey, the Roman remains, the lakes and the river from the path through the park.   Just over the river is Ye Olde Fighting Cocks.  It is one of many old inns here and claims to be the oldest inhabited licensed house in England, parts of the pub date from the 8th century, Cromwell is reported to have stayed here during the English civil war.

St Albans is a city steeped in history with many old buildings, including the Roman Verulamium, the 14thC Abbey gateway, the 15thC Clock Tower which retains it's original bell, the Marlborough Almshouses of 1736 and the many old houses Fishpool Street, but to mention a few.  This was one of the first towns built by the Romans after their invasion in 43AD.  It was completely destroyed by Queen Boadicea in an uprising in  60-61AD, but rebuilt even larger, by the Romans over the years.  The Verulamium Museum with its model of the Roman Town is well worth a visit.

The Cathedral and Abbey Church of St Alban has an exceptionally long nave and dates from Norman times. It was built on what is believed to be the site where St Alban, Britain's first Christian martyr, was killed.  He was executed in 209AD  in the reign of Emperor Severus.  Alban, a Briton was also a Roman citizen. He sheltered a priest who converted Alban to Christianity.  Alban protected the priest by changing cloaks with him and was arrested in his place.  He refused to recant and was executed.  A monastic shrine was built here, and later, in 793AD, Offa, King of Mercia, founded an abbey and restarted the monastery.  The present Abbey was begun in 1077AD,  yet a lot was destroyed with the dissolution of the monasteries.  In 1877 St Albans received a Royal Charter, giving it city status and the Abbey became a cathedral.  In the 1880's Lord Grimthorpe, a wealthy businessman, restored the Abbey to its present state.   

There are many other churches in the City, including St Michael's, founded by Abbot Ulsinus in 948. It is where Sir Francis Bacon (1561 - 1626) is buried.  The church also houses Bacon's Monument.  He was the 1st Baron Verulam, Viscount St Albans.  An English philosopher, lawyer and politician. He lived at Gorhambury House, which he inherited when his brother died in 1601.  The present Gorhambury House was built in the late 18th century and replaced the older 16th century one where Bacon lived and remains the seat of the Earl of Verulam.  The ruins of Bacon's house can still be seen nearby.

Charles Williams, the prolific English writer, as a boy lived at 15 Victoria Street and went to St Albans School. He was a member of the Oxford literary group, the "Inklings" whose members included C S Lewis and J R R Tolkien.  The house was knocked down to make way for The Maltings Shopping Centre. However, there is a blue plaque on the building to commemorate his former home. 

Two great battles of the Wars of the Roses (1455 - 1487) were fought at St Albans, one on 22nd May in 1455 and the second on 17th February 1461.

"Ryder and Son" had a seed merchants here.  Sam Ryder is better known today as the founder of the golfing competition, the Ryder Cup.  His own club, the Verulam Golf Course is the original home of the Ryder Cup and is where he developed the competition.

Just a short way from St Albans and within a mile of our route into the city is The Gardens of the Rose (no connection with the Wars). The Royal National Rose Society's Garden is open between June and September each year and there are over 30,000 roses on display.

 

Leg 7. - see Photos (Legs 7) for images of this leg
For five miles the route follows The Alban Way to Hatfield (a disused railway track that has now been turned into a cycle path). Shortly after the start the ruins on the right is the remains of Sir Richard Lee's house, built in 1555 on the site of Sopwell Nunnery (c1140), which Lee pulled down, soon after buying from Henry VIII.

At 5.3 miles look left to see the small monument to the Comet outside the Hotel of the same name. The Comet was the first ever jet passenger aeroplane and was built at the de Havilland works at Hatfield.  Other well known aircraft built here included the Mosquito and the Trident.

The new town of Hatfield, which we pass through on the Alban Way, was designed in 1948. We cross over the A1(M) where it enters the Hatfield Tunnel. The Galleria Shopping Centre to our left being built over the tunnel.

It was at Hatfield Studios (at Hatfield Aerodrome) that Steven Spielberg filmed most of Saving Private Ryan, spending $15m on sets. He later came back, with Tom Hanks, to film the TV series Band of Brothers.

Hatfield as a settlement dates from Saxon times.  It grew up around the gateway to the Tudor Palace of the Bishop of Ely.  Its remains are to be seen in the grounds of Hatfield House, home of the Marquises of Salisbury, and one of the most spectacular Jacobean Houses in England.  It was built by Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury and chief minister to James I.  It has been the Cecil family home ever since.

Hatfield House, around the outside of whose grounds we run, is magnificent in its great park and dates from 1610. The Old Tudor Palace (1497), is where Princess Elizabeth Tudor was confined for three years.  It is said she received the news of her accession to the throne, while sitting under an oak tree in the park, following the death of her half sister, Mary, in 1558.  Elizabeth I made William Cecil her chief minister, and held her first cabinet meeting at Hatfield House.

The house is open to the public in the Summer months and cinema goers will recognise the inside of Hatfield House as that of Bruce Wayne's in the Batman films.

 Old Hatfield is a beautiful town with many old houses and pubs, including The Eight Bells, dating from 1630 and which Dickens knew and featured in Oliver Twist.  It was to The Eight Bells that Bill Sykes was said to have fled with his dog after his brutal murder of Nancy.

"It was nine o'clock at night, when the man, quite tired out, and the dog, limping and lame from the unaccustomed exercise, turned down the hill by the church of the quiet village, and plodding along the little street, crept into a small public house, whose scanty light had guided them to the spot. There was a fire in the tap-room and some country-labourers were drinking before it"

It is from one of the upper windows of the pub that highwayman, Dick Turpin is said to have leapt onto his horse Black Bess and said to have galloped away, as the Bow Street Runners entered the place.

In the days of horse drawn coaches, Hatfield was a staging point on the Great North Road linking London to the North.  From 1839 a coach called the Sovereign left The Eight Bells for London at 7am every day.

To the south of Hatfield Park we continue around the park, on narrow winding roads, through Wildhill. The Woodman at Wildhill is a inviting country pub with a beer garden, and is often frequented by walkers and cyclists. The local hilly countryside and quiet narrow roads proves a good training ground for keen cyclists.  Just past the pub is Camfield Place, It was built in 1867 by the grandfather of Beatrix Potter. The 19th century Italianate house was the summer residence of Beatrix, who spent much of her time here sketching nature scenes and writing "The Tale of Peter Rabbit".   As a young girl she took a great interest in gardens and wrote about her favourite in detail. Of her grandmother's garden at Camfield she compared the efforts of Capability Brown to those of her grandfather.

 ‘The grouping of trees is particularly fine, and more striking from the contrast to my grandfather’s muddled and over-crowded efforts.’

From 1950 the house was the home of romantic novelist Dame Barbara Cartland. She died on 21 May 2000 and is buried in the grounds under a 400 year old oak tree that was planted by Elizabeth I. 

Shortly after Camfield Place we turn right, at the entrance to the Hatfield London Country Golf Club, down Cucumber Lane and follow hilly, narrow lanes to the finish, just past the war memorial at Little Berkhamsted.

The Country Club is in Bedwell Park, a deer park  which dates from about 1388. It was once home to London brewer, Samuel Whitbread.  The park is now owned by the Tokyo Leisure Development Company, explaining why the clubhouse menu has a very Japanese flavour to it.

The black metal post on the left on Cucumber Lane is thought to be a "coal post". This is an old taxing point for moving coal and other cargo. There are about 250 of these surrounding London. Many of them were erected following the Coal Duties Act of 1851, and thanks to them, many of the bridges across the Thames were paid for.

 

Leg 8.- see Photos (Legs 8) for images of this leg
The tall brick tower on, the B158 and visible from the start, is a folly known as Stratton’s Observatory.  It was built in 1789 by Admiral John Stratton.  From the 100ft tall tower he was able to view his ships anchored in the Thames.  The tower is now a private house.  Much of the village is designated as a conservation area. There is the St Andrew's Church, the homely Five Horseshoes pub and several attractive Grade ll listed buildings.  For some good photos of the village just follow this link, and for a larger image just click on the photo.

Bishop Ken was born in the village in 1637.  Orphaned as when a child, he was raised by his elder sister and her famous husband Izaak Walton. He ministered to Charles II at his death, and attended Monmouth’s execution.  Charles made "that little fellow who would not give Nell a room" his chaplain in 1680, because of his boldness and honesty.  He was one of the seven bishops sent to the Tower in 1688 for refusing to publish the "Declaration of Indulgence" in accordance with the instructions of James II.  Queen Anne offered him his diocese at Wells Cathedral back, but he refused and died in 1711 whilst residing at Longleat.

Brian Johnston, the distinguished BBC radio and television commentator, known by fans as Johnners, was born here in 1912. He was the BBC voice of cricket for years and many other successful programmes such as An Evening with Johnners, In Town Tonight and On The Job, and Down Your Way.

It was at Little Berkhamsted, after the Battle of Hastings when William the Conqueror had surrounded London and burnt many outlying villages,  where a deputation of the Saxon leaders offered him the surrender of London.

At Broxbourne the relay joins the River Lee Navigation, for over 5 miles, passing Waltham Abbey just over a mile from the end of the leg.

The earliest recorded history of the town at Waltham Abbey dates back to the reign of King Canute (d. 1835), when a member of the Royal Court, Tovi the Proud, brought a miraculous stone cross (the Holy Rood) from his estate in Somerset.  From this is derived the areas old name, Waltham Holy Cross.  The ruins of the old abbey, which are visible in the grounds of the Abbey Church, contain the oldest Norman works in the country.  King Harold, slain at the Battle of Hastings in 1066, was buried here.  Two stones, to the east of the Abbey, is where his body is believed to lie.  The inscriptions on the stones read "THIS STONE MARKS THE POSITION OF THE HIGH ALTAR BEHIND WHICH KING HAROLD IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN BURIED 1066" AND "HAROLD KING OF ENGLAND OBVT 1066".  The Abbey was the last in the country to be dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540, when Robert Fuller, the last Abbot, surrendered to the king.  The tower, at the west end of the church that now dominates the town, was built in 1556 using materials from the demolished abbey. It was built at the opposite side to the old tower to stabilise the leaning 12thC nave which survived the dissolution.

There are many other things of interest to see in the grounds of the Abbey and the Visitors Centre, beside the finish, has a small museum and lots more information about the Abbey and the River Lee Valley.

The town has many old buildings with wooden frames, such as the Welsh Harp and Sun Inns. In front of The Crown Pub is a well dating from.  Other things to see here include The Royal Gunpowder Mills and the Epping Forest District Museum in Sun Street.  The museum comprises of two timber framed houses dating from 1520.  It shows the history of the area from Stone Age to present day, and admission is free.

Shortly after Waltham Abbey we pass under the M25. Looking back from Rammey Marsh Lock you can see the blue motorway bridge in the distance. Blue seems to be the standard colour to paint bridges carrying motorways over rivers. Maybe it's part of government policy. An election manifesto promise that has been adhered too.  On the right you can see one of the small communities of river-folk that have become so common on London's waterways. Possibly the cause of an never ending housing shortage, or just as a way of being different and getting away from the mass produced postage stamp plots of the modern day dwellings. Whichever the reason, these people tend to take pride in their homes and add to the interest and scenery of their surroundings.

The leg finishes on the towpath next to Enfield Lock. On the opposite bank of the canal the line of small cottages running down to the lock is called Government Row and were originally built in 1816 to house local factory workers. A few meters further along the towpath you can see from the sign that we have joined the course of another long distance way around London, the London Loop.

 

Leg 9.- see Photos (Legs9) for images of these legs                                                                
Starting
just around the corner in the carpark of Rifles Pub, we soon pass the old Small Arms Factory on Enfield Island. Famous for the Lee Enfield Rifle, designed by James Lee, and named after him and not the river. The main square around which the arms factory was built , was also called after him and still retains his name today. There are many other old buildings you can see which are mementos to the history of this area.  A new development of houses has just been finished, known as Enfield Island Village, with a new bridge over the River Lea providing access for vehicles.

Leaving Enfield Island, we cross the River Lea Relief Channel and along a wooded lane to a large metal gate.  Thanks to the owner of the bungalow next to the gate, for moving his fence two feet into his garden, we can exit the lane. He did this because the Department of Environment put the gate there to stop public access and stop him from using the lane to test out motor bikes he had just fixed.

From here we go down Mott Street and climb into Epping Forest.   Leg nine goes cross country through Epping Forest.  The forest is now 6,000 acres, but was ten times that 200years ago.  The Epping Forest Act of 1878 may not be particularly well known today, but this crucial piece of legislation turned a royal hunting ground into a public forest and ensured that this priceless piece of woodland would remain accessible to Londoners for generations to come.  Today the Corporation of London, as the Forest's Conservator's, still manage the woodland (mainly oak, hornbeam, birch and beech) its ponds, paths and heath.

At High Beach, where we go off road into the forest, there is the Epping Forest Conservation Centre, a pub and tea house.  Tennyson, the poet, lived here at Beech Hill Park between 1837 and 1840. The churchyard at High Beach is where he wrote part of the poem "In Memoriam".   Admiral George Cockburn, who ferried Napoleon to his exile in St Helena, also lived in the village, ironically as did the emperor's nephew Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte.

John Clare (poet), Edward Thomas (writer and poet) and Dick Turpin (highwayman) are also associated with High Beach. One house has got two blue plaques on its front wall. One to Frank R Clark (artist & goldsmith) and the other to Fred Speakman.

The path through the forest is pleasant, but can be very hilly in places. However, there are many things to distract your attention from these hills.  You need to stay on course, enjoy the scenery you pass, yet still beware of riders on horseback and cyclists on their mountain bikes.

The white house, on the left, on Baldwins Hill, at five miles was home to sculptor Jacob Epstein.

There are many things to see within the forest including the Loughton Camp and Ambresbury Banks, both Iron Age encampments and now signposted as ancient monuments.  The latter is where Queen Boudicca made her last stand against the Romans in AD 61, she committed suicide so as not to be captured.  To the south of the forest is Connaught Water, a lake surrounded by flora and fauna and named after The Duke of Connaught, the first ranger of the forest.  Nearby is Queen Elizabeth's Hunting Lodge a splendid Tudor construction.  It was built by Henry VIII in 1543 and taken over by his daughter Elizabeth in 1589.  Today it is a museum.

Shortly after coming out of the forest we pass through the village of Theydon Bois with it's large green, dissected by its avenue of oaks planted in 1832 by Robert Westerby Hall-Dare, Lord of the Manor.

The rest of the leg follows narrow roads, through Hobbs Cross to finish at Passingford Bridge near the River Roding.  Close by, on the river, is Passingford Mill and just south is Stapleford Aerodrome.

Leg 10. - see Photos (Legs 10) for images of the leg.

Starts down a narrow lane beside the River Roding at Passingford Bridge.  The first two miles are mainly cross-country, following the river under the M25 and through fields past Howletts Hall Farm.  We come out onto a narrow road at two miles, where it's quite strange to see the road cross the river twice within a few yards.  From here the course follows narrow lanes to the finish.  Kelveden Hatch at five miles hides one of Britain's darkest secrets.  Just north of the course is the government's secret nuclear bunker, now open to the public (Go to Bunker Website).                                                                                                                                         

The first day finishes beside the Church of St Lawrence at Blackmore.  The church includes the remains of a 12thC Augustine priory and has one of the finest 15thC timber bell towers in England  The adjoining Jericho Priory is built on the site of a 16thC house.  It was used by Henry VIII as a country retreat and it was the birthplace, in 1520,  of his natural son, Henry Fitzroy, Duke of Richmond. The house is associated with the saying "Go to Jericho".  The village has many interesting old buildings, including the timber framed Bull Inn, built c1500, and Fingreth Hall, to the north was once home to Sir Walter Mildmay (1520 - 1589), Chancellor of the Exchequer to Queen Elizabeth I and founder of Emmanuel College at Cambridge.  There are also some ancient stocks and Blackmore was voted best kept village in the South East England.

This picture from the post office, with all its traditional parts, shows how during the late 80's and early 90's our government stripped the country of many of it's well known symbols. Thank God that places like here held onto their identities and traditions.

Where’s Blackmore you may ask.  The answer being, it’s one of the nicest villages in Essex and it’s at the end of day one of the Green Belt Relay.

We stop here tonight for some well earned refreshments and rest.  Tomorrow we head south and across the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge.  Let’s see what delights await us in Kent and Surrey and along the North Downs.

Day 2

Leg 11. see (Photos Leg 11) for images of this leg.

Sunday morning is an early rise for everyone. However, it's not just only the vegetarians that not don't enjoy their full English breakfast. Those that run the first stage also find it a problem. Yet from past experiences some do have it packed and transported to the end of the stage, where they can enjoy it after their run.

The stage follows narrow country lanes through rural Essex.  The route south to Mountnessing, along Green Street and Trueloves Lane typical of rural England.  So peaceful with the scattered, well decorated houses and colourful hedgerows as the only things to block out the views of the surrounding countryside.  A few years ago the only thing that broke a blue Spring sky was a large Virgin Balloon going on its practise flights before making a challenge for an around the world record. Knowing Richard Branson, he was most likely onboard.

Off the course to the right at 3 miles is the remains of the 12thC Augustinian Thorby Priory.  Legend has it that during the dark ages when local men folk would go of to the Crusades or were away for other reasons, then the number of available men in the area would not meet the demand of the women folk.  The Monks of the Priory were an obvious choice to help meet the demand.  The situation got so bad that a local law was made for a Leap Day, as every four years, on this day,  women had the opportunity to propose marriage.  The law stated that if a woman proposed to a man and he accepted on Leap Day, and the man was drunk, then the acceptance could not be counted as binding.  For the occasion the monks would brew up a intoxicating mixture, known as "Old Trouser Leg Shaker".  On the given day, all the monks would partake, hence if any fell for a ladies advances on that day, the law could be applied.

The fine Windmill at Mountnessing is a landmark for many miles around.  The mill was built in 1807, on the site of a previous mill dating from c1477.  It was worked by the Angis family until 1933.  The local council took it over and restored it in 1937. It was later bought by Essex County Council for one shilling (5p).  They repaired and replaced many parts.  It still grinds flour that can be bought and is open on the third Sunday of each month in Spring and Summer.

In Brentwood, which is brushed by the Relay, a new R.C. Cathedral, designed by Quinlan Terry, was opened in 1991.  Brentwood built on what was the route of many Pilgrims going to Thomas Becket shrine at Canterbury.  He was killed by soldiers of the king in 1170.  At the time the area was covered by a great forest and when a clearing was made by fire, it was named Burnt Wood - hence Brentwood.  The town is now very urbanised and the remains of a late 12thC church can still be seen in the High Street.

Shortly after Mountnessing we pass the water tower at Begrums on our was to Hutton.  The clock topped building on the right at seven miles, to our right on Hutton Lane is Poplars Hall, built in 1906 and restored to its original glory in 1991.    

From the old church at Hutton, at seven miles, the run goes cross country, on bridlepaths through Ingrave, to Thorndon Park.  Thorndon Hall, at nine miles, is magnificent and was built in 1770.  The Hall was the home of Lord Petre.  In 1778, fearing an invasion from France, many thousand militia were camped nearby at Warley Common.  In October, George III and Queen Charlotte visited Lord Petre at Thorndon Hall to inspect the troops.  The review included a mock battle in which 10,000 men were engaged.  The camp broke up the following month, but was reformed in 1779, 1781 and 1782.  The hall is now divided up into private flats.

Thorndon Park is divided into two, the North Park and the South Park.  There is an ancient deer park area dating back to the 15thC, ancient woodlands, three lakes, Thorndon Hall Chapel and many footpaths.  The design of the parkland was reorganised, by Capability Brown, in the late 18thC.  The Thorndon Park Countryside Centre, at the end of the leg, built from timber blown over in the 1987 storms in the park, has a permanent exhibition and a shop selling gifts and refreshments.

 

Leg 12. see (photos leg 12) - no photos yet

Zig zags southward from Thorndon Park past the Greyhound at Little Warley, along leafy lanes, to Thurrock and the Thames Estuary. 

In Aveley at 10 miles, bones of prehistoric mammals were found recently and are on display in the Natural History Museum in London.  Mardyke Valley is an important wildlife corridor running from Ship Lane in Aveley to Orsett Fen.  It has pleasant views along its seven mile walk on footpaths and bridleways and maybe possible to use as part of our route.

As we reach the end of the leg, the structure ahead, towering above all, is the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge. The longest cable-stayed bridge in Europe.  This takes the M25 and the Relay south and over the Thames to Kent. I’ve few regrets that we are not permitted to run over it - we’d have to close one of the lanes. Maybe we would be allowed to run through the Dartford Tunnel, below, which takes M25 traffic northbound from Kent to Essex. Something possibly to consider for future years - or maybe not as the case may be.

From the bridge the view is breathtaking. The Thames Estuary with the remains of its huge docks and industries lie below and into the distance.

Leg 13. - see Photos (Legs 13) for images of this leg
The carpark at Stone is isolated and can prove tricky to find.  The view of the Thames and the Bridge is impressive. The interior of the church in the centre of the village is one of the architectural splendours of Kent.  It is believed that the work was done by the same masons who were responsible for Westminster Abbey.

The first mile and a half is through the outskirts of Dartford, before getting back into the countryside.  Just after three miles we turn left up a narrow lane, Roman Villa Road.  Although there are many sites of roman buildings scattered along the Darent, I assume the name refers to the one, half a mile along the road, to the right.  Just past this and again a path to the right, leads to St John's Jerusalem.  This is a pretty 17thC house, with part dating back to 13thC.  It owned by the National Trust and set in peaceful, secluded gardens and moated by the Darent.  The site was a Commandery of the Knights Hospitaller where newly joined knights were trained for the Crusades.  The flint chapel is all that remains of the original buildings.

The Relay follows the Darent Valley through many picturesque villages. There is much evidence of the industries that used to trive along the river.  At South Darenth we pass under a 1858 railway viaduct and by a large imposing paper mill.   Only part of the mill is used today, but you can still see the hooks at the top of the building, used for lifting goods between levels.

Across the river, on the right at five miles, is Franks Hall where Elizabeth I once stayed.  It is rumoured that one of her ladies in waiting earned the Queen's disapproval of her love for a local yeoman.  The ladies' body was found on the banks of the river. It is not known if she drowned or was killed by the Queen's orders. Her ghost is said to rise from the river in August and walk across the lawn.

Farningham, at 6 miles, has an old mill, many interesting old buildings and a manor house which was once home to Captain Bligh of the Bounty. It's here, after passing through a pub's garden,  we come off the river path and turn right through the village. Look out for the aptly named White House on the right and during the Summer the Family Butchers on the left is brightly decorated with flowers.

As we approach the end of the High Street we turn south along Sparepenny Lane (named so because carters used it to avoid paying tolls on the main road), at points the hedge on the left is cut low to give a view of the ruins of Eynsford Castle.  The 11thC castle was the residence of a Norman knight and the greater part of it's high curtain wall and stone hall still stand.

At Eynsford, the 15th century bridge (and ford) crosses to Eynsford Church.  Composer Peter Warlock lived and worked here.

We follow Lullingstone Lane under the railway viaduct and past Eagle Heights, a bird of prey centre, where eagles, hawks, falcons, owls and vultures from all over the world can be seen.  The lane leads to Lullingstone Roman Villa and Castle.  The villa is one of the most complete in the country and is now under cover, to preserve it.  Lullingstone Castle is a magnificent  manor house dating from the 15thC.  The gateway dates from the reign of Henry VII and is one of the oldest made of brick in the country.  The house has stayed as the property of the same family for 600 years.  If you visit the house you will see many royal connections. 

The last part of the leg follows the River Darent to finish at Lullingstone Park Visitor's Centre.  The visitors centre has a restaurant, a shop and a small museum to keep young children entertained.  There are many interesting walks from the visitor's centre through the adjacent park.

On the riverbank just before the visitors there is a beautifully carved bench, a memorial to a recently deceased teenager.

 

Leg 14.- see Photos (Legs 14) for images of this leg.                                                                     Leg 14 continues along the Darent Valley Path. Shortly after the start, on the left is Castle Farm. The farmhouse is built on the remains of Shoreham Castle. On the river at the farm is a water powered windmill. Shortly after Castle Farm, as we go off road, the distinctive field down to our left is a hop garden.  Hop gardens have been a recognised feature of the Kent countryside for hundreds of years.  In summer the bines (the climbing stems) grow up strings suspended from a wire frame, and in late August the bines are stripped and the hops dried in oast kilns before being sent to the kilns.  Until recently drying took place in  white cone topped oast houses, but nowadays most oast houses have been converted into private dwellings.

After passing through a couple of fields we drop down to a path along the river and follow this to Water House at the centre of the pretty village of Shoreham.   The village is popular with day-trippers because of its many cosy pubs and river and forest walks.

Samuel Palmer (1805 - 1881), visionary landscape painter, lived at Water House in Shoreham from 1826 - 37. This is remembered by a plaque on the outside wall of the garden. Among regular visitors was his friend and teacher William Blake.  Much of Palmer's work from the period is in the Victoria & Albert Museum.

There are many old houses and pubs in the village. The 16thC Kings Arms boasts the only complete Jolly Ouster's Box left in the country. The suns on the walls of some of the larger houses are "fire marks" the early trademarks of a well known insurance company. The fire engines of the day would only attend houses that displayed such an insurance certificate.  The large cross on the hill (seen from the churchyard, parts of the village and the golf course) was cut in 1920. It is a memorial to those locals who died in the First World War.

After leaving Shoreham we cross the Darent Valley Golf Course. The club usually publicise our run on the members noticeboard, so that the golfers know what to expect and can cheer on the runners. A wooden sign also notifies runners of the presence of the golf course.

There are many oast houses along the route, the one down to the right at 2 miles is Filston Farm. The farm was originally "Vielestun", the settlement of the Norman knight Vital, depicted on the Bayeaux Tapestry as one of William the Conqueror's men.  On a narrow road, at the entrance to the farm, is a carved wooden sign displaying the Filston Ancient Trackway.

Continue along the Darent Valley on path to Otford, at 3 miles. A village built around a roundabout with a pond in the middle. The pond is fed by a stream rising near the station, and is unique in the UK as a listed building. The ducks on the pond are given a food allowance by the parish council. Near the pond is the remains of Otford Palace. From Anglo-Saxon times till 1537 the palace was one of the chain of houses belonging to the archbishops of Canterbury. The Palace was rebuilt around 1515 by Archbishop Wareham to rival that of Wolsey's at Hampton Court. Henry VIII forced Archbishop Cranmer to surrender the palace in 1537.  When Henry died the palace fell into ruin. The principal surviving remains are the North-West Tower, the lower gallery, now converted to cottages and a part of the Great Gatehouse. There are further remains on private land, and a section of the boundary wall can be seen in Bubblestone Road. The entire site, of about four acres is designated as an ancient monument.  There are many old buildings in the village, including a wall in St Bartholomew's Church dating from c1050, making it the oldest standing wall in the area.  On a building on the High Street is a stone tapestry telling the story of the history of the area (tapestry2. tapestry3).

There are many other information boards in the village telling of the history of the area and a novel one showing the local recreation ground as the centre of a model of the Solar System at midnight on 1st January 2000. The model keeps the Solar System within the village and explains that on the same scale the nearest star "Procima Centauri" would be as far away as Los Angeles.

At Otford, on reaching the High Street,  the Darent Valley Path joins the North Downs Way for a short while to the Doddington Manor Hotel. Soon after the hotel we pass an old thatched house on our right. If you look closely at the roof of the house you will see thatched sculptures of birds. It's here that we leave the Darent Valley Path. You could actually say it leaves us, by turning left and disappearing into a field.

Now well and truly into the rolling hills of the North Downs. We follow the North Downs Way and other paths to Chevening. The Church is over 800 years old and contains a splendid monument by Sir Francis Legatt Chantrey . We take the path north from the church, and then right through fields to the edge of a wood. The large house to the right is Chevening House. It was designed by Inigo Jones and built between 1616 and 1630.  It was acquired by James Stanhope, later Lord Stanhope, in 1718.  It stayed in the hands of the Stanhope family until 1959, when it was presented to the nation.  It was their wish that it should be used by a cabinet minister or member of the royal family.  Since the 7th Earl of Stanhope died in 1967 it has been home to Edward Heath, Lord Hailsham and Prince Charles among others and is now the official country residence to Foreign Secretary, Jack Straw.

The climb up the side of the wood is a good one, but don't think it finishes where you enter the wood, the steepest bit is yet to come.&n